Part 2

Skitouring around Grövelsjön


On Monday, February 12th, I reached Grövelsjön in the evening. It was snowing slightly and the temperature was -10° C. Because I couldn´t get a bed or room for the night in the well known fjällstation Grövelsjön I was once again forced to sleep in my car.


The red circle: my accomodation in Storvallen


Haus storvallen

The next day I got a hot tip: Ask "Gote" for accommodation! Gote was a very kind Swedish man. This nice house was his and he left the whole first floor to me for a fair price.

I enjoyed the warm house and the friendship with Gote. From here I went on a lot of ski day trips in the environment of Grövelsjön.


This is Gote, my friendly host in Storvallen. He allowed me to park my car nearby the house while I was walking through the Rogen Nationalpark.


In the whole region around Grövelsjön there were loipes and cross country ski tracks.


Fir trees and pines sank 2 m in snow.


After 6 km speedy cross country skiing I took a break at crossings of loipes.


Many fast skiers were curios about my pulka. Sometimes, like here, they had many questions to ask and we had a small talk.


Small romantic huts with caps of snow inmidst the deep snowy forest.


On a ski trip to west I crossed the only partial frozen Grövel.


On a tour to southwest! The whole day it was dusky and snowy .


The trees with frost and snow could create a surreal landscape.


I had somehow hoped I could spend the night in this mountain shelter. But the entrance was open and except for a small seat there was only the naked ground.


As I was equipped for overnight stays even when I only made a day trip I thought about pitching up my tent on this plateau.


But the weather was getting better and for staying there it was too early . So I skied back to Storvallen.

Now I could see the Storvätteshagna, a mountain I had skied to the top of 2 days before in bad weather.


Wonderful weather with a fine winter foehn! I decided for a day trip to Oskarstugan.


At the beginning of my trip the trail led me 400 m continously to the top.


Glorious blue sky and a fantastic view to the Norwegian mountains!


The Oskarstugan is situated in a wide flat valley. It is a popular destination for day trippers from Grövelsjön fjällstation.


The shelter stugan was well covered with snow. If it wasn`t for the many skiers you would have to did through the snow to reach the door in tedious work.


In the shelter it was amazingly warm, as some skier had brought some firewood with them, which was immediately lightened. Unfortunately my camera fogged.


In a wide arc I skied over this hilly mountain in the direction of Björnliden.


Below you can see the valley of the Grövel, where I skied back to Storvallen.

In the region around Storvallen and Grövelsjön I made further skitours for a week.

It was February 20th that I chose to make a cross country skitour through the Rogen nationalpark.



With Pulka and Tent

in the Rogen-Nationalpark


Map: Grövelsjön to Rogenstugan (Fjällkarte W1 1:100 000)

Here you can see my skiing trail from Storvallen to Rogenstugan, branch point left. Back to Storvallen I took the right trail.


This is the well known Grövelsjön-fjällstation. These noble hotel at the kungsleden is often visited by lots of people coming with busses and cars. I preferred to look for a accommodation in Storvallen.

From Storvallen to Grövelsjön I had to go uphill 250 m with my pulka.


For the coming week the weather forecast predicted sunny weather. This sounded good and so I started a ski cross country tour to the Rogen Nationalpark. I took with me a stormproofed tent, a 2 kg sleeping bag, food for 2 weeks and down feather anorak and trousers. All in all my pulka had a weight of about 50 kg.

I estimated that there were no very steep trails in the park. The only risc in wintertime was extreme weather, storm, coldness, too much snow, avalanches and so on. But this I would be prepared for.


Here I skied on the Kungsleden, the main hiking trail in Sweden which is marked with crosses. They can be a valuable support if someone had loses their orientation, for example in fog or dense snowfall.


Endless vastness on the high fjäll. Therefore I enjoyed to meet people for a small talk or to take a photo.


This is the Särsjöbäcken shelter on a high mountain plateau.


The little shelter was empty. I took a longer break drinking hot tea and nibbling chocolate. For staying overnight it was too early.


Let`s go on! The whole day it was cloudy. Only far away in northeast the clouds brok up and let the mountains shine.


Early in the evening I eventually found the Hävlingstugorna, hidden behind snow hills.

I had looked forward to this stugorna. By now the temperature had dropped down to 16° C.


The winter-room was open and so I made myself at home. I was alone and could take all the place for myself. I put the gas stove on and cooked pasta dish. Since there was not enough firewood and I was not keen on making new, I slipped into my thick sleeping bag early in the evening. Soon I was in deep dreams.


The morning was icecold. I prepared my muesly breakfast with gloves. Only a small gas flame provided some warmth. 8 o`clock I was on trail at -22°C.


At the end of Hävlingen lake the Högpikvalen moubtains rose upward. The cloud cover had opened up and I was hopeful to see some sunshine.


At the end of the lake the landscape became bumpy.


The trail led me through a forest full of big pieces of rocks.



As suddenly a musher with his dogs raced towards me I avoided him and tried to take a photo. But the dogs ran with at a speed round me. The musher made a break and gave me an opportunity to take a photo. He was a German and happy to be on tour with his dogs in the National park.


For this night I had chosen the little shelter Vändsjönstugorna. Actually you can use the shelter only for the emergencies, but to the Rogenstuga I had to ski 14 km and that was too much for me today.


This was the equippment of every mountain shelter. There was a little stove and in the corner some firewood. On the wooden boxes you could spread sleeping mats. With my gasoline stove I prepared a good tasting pea soup. This was the highlight of the day for me.

At 9 pm I was well envelopped in my sleeping bag. I listened intensivly to any noise. But there was nothing, no roaring wind, no howling wolfes, no scratching marters, the silence was absolute.


The next day it was not souch fine weather. The sun had a corona and needed a long time to break through the clouds. There was no movement in the icecold air!


The Bredasjön shelter was not so nice. Hard snow on the ground and no wood to make a fire. After a small snack I moved on to Rogenstugan.


Again bumpy terrain! If the hill ascended too steeply it was not so easy to draw the pulka over the crest.


Step by step the sun broke through the veil of clouds.


Late afternoon, blue sky at last! Here I was standing nearby the Rogenstugan looking to the Rogen lake. Now I had skied from Storvallen to Rogenstugan about 65 km.


Map section: Rogen-Nationalpark (Fjällkarte Z8 1:100 000)

green color, my skitours, red circle, my cabin in Kähringsjön from where I skied through the Nationalpark.


The Rogenstugan is the best-known mountain hut in Rogen Nationalpark. It is directly situated at the lakeside. You can only reach it from the sea or through the woods, but not by car on the road.


The friendly warden offered the blackcurrant juice for me. So I could rapidly satiesfy my painful thirst. I prepared to cook a noodle mushroom dish.

The host would to know a lot of things about my ski touring and asked me a lot of details about my equipment. He was dreaming of going on tour some day, too.


Once again a wonderful day in this magic winter world. The host told me for the next days there would be fine weather.


I quickly regained my rhythm and skied speedily on the trail to the north. After 3 km I turned to the northwest.


Now I was in the heart of Rogen Nationalpark.


The trail to Skedbrostugan


5 kilometers before the Skedbrostuga I detected a nice place for camping.


This night it had snowed a good deal. My tent, a geodesist of the Hilleberg company, had shown a good stability. I covered my sleeping bag with an additional fleece blanket, which gave me a wonderful warmth. Big problem the next morning: Getting out of the warm sleeping bag when outside there were minus 30° C .


A lonely wanderer discovered me. It was a friendly German I had a small talk with and who was so kind to take a photo from me.


He was also exploring the Nationalpark and was also very delighted by the silence and peacefulness of the park.


It brightened up more and more and ...


... at noontime ...


... I skied under a glorious blue sky through the open forest.


I didn´t ski to Skedbrostugan, but rather I decided on taking a new direction eastward to Käringsjön. I had the hope to find an accommodation for some days.


In the early afternoon some clouds came up and a strong wind ripped through the woodland.


In this moment I discovered a little shelter not to far away from me on the top of a hill.


Although it was too early for seeking a place for the night I didn´t want to go further.

The open shelter was not practicable for an overnightstay. Now I would like to enjoy the warm rays of sunshine and so I wanted to stay here.


Consequently I was looking for a suitable camping place near by. The little hill behind me gave some wind protection and so I could sit down on my pulka to enjoy some rays of sunshine, before I would prepare a noodle soap with tomatoes.

It was a star-bright night, but very very cold. A day with bright sun and a night with full moon let temperatures drop down to -30° C.


As cold it was in the morning, as warm it became during the day with increasing temperatures about -15° C.


Just here there was an open water spring. As I wanted get to Käringsjön today, I did not risc to get water out of the spring.


Just here on the north south trail to Käringsjön.


The first glance at Käringsjön, a very old and inhabited farm.


I was seen from far away by a farmer himself and so I went to him and asked for aaccommodation.


He offered me this nice little hut for 20 Euros per night with free heating. But I had to haul fresh water in a bucket, carry the fire wood in a basket from the shed and to go to the outhouse 100 m. I accepted and was very glad about living in a warm and protected wooden cabin.


Near by the door there was a little stove and beside it the box and basket for firewood.


My little hut was equipped with electrical light.


This was my walkway to the outhouse.


Opposite from my cabin there was the shed with the fire wood.


Here a troll with his bear paid attention that nobody took to much firewood.


The hut was my starting point for many wonderful ski tours through the Nationalpark.


In the environment of the Käringsjön farm there were many old cottages,

which were ...


... very picturesque, but not be inhabited any more.


It was the best of weather when I was touring on this trail to Käringsjövallen.


This residential house marked the aim of my ski tour to Käringsjövallen. Sadly, at the moment there was nobody at home.


So I sat down under the roof of a shed and took some snacks before I toured back to Käringsjön in a big arc to south.


On my way back I took the southern trail to Käringsjön. I had to ski at least 9 km to my cabin in Käringsjön.

The birches in front of my hut lightened up in the red afternoon sun.


After this day full of wonderful sun shine it became very cold in the early evening.


This was my starting point for several tours uphill to the Stör Hannsskinne mountains.


Direct besides my hut I could ascend to this little hill ...


... and overlook the Käringsjön farm.


Behind the main house I turned to the north and skied through the powder snow.


I came across of this big old wooden house, which was still inhabited some years before.


Going on through forest terrain! For hours I was making my trail from glade to glade in the deep snow.


Short views back showed me that I came higher up step by step.


Eventually around midday I arrived at the top of the hill with only few trees and had a great sight all around.


This stone was suitable for me to have a little lunch break.


The silence, the peace and the warming rays of the sun, it was a wonderful feeling.


Leaning against this stone I enjoyed the wonderful view of the Bustfalen mountains.


2 days later I skied once more from the west to the top of this hill.


The view on the Skedbrofjellett. Hiking from here to this summit would take at least one day.


I was happy to be in my cabin in the evening. Firering the stove up I made a delicious noodle dish and sank into my reading.


I could hardly believe to have such nice weather.


A very important indication: 731 km to Göteborg.


Some steps away from my hut I drew a trail through the deep powder snow.


I toured across woods and meadows and saw this powerful pinie tree.


After a walk of 16 km I came back again to my cabin in the late afternoon.

It seemed as if I had been on tour for many days, when I saw again the farm and my hut again.


Already in the evening the thermometer dropped down very rapidly.


This night we had full moon and the sky was so clear that you could see all the stars. The thermometer dropped to the mark of minus 30° C.


Today I set off to go back to Störvallen. The landlord and his wife tried to persuade me to postpone my set off because this night the temperatures had dropped down to - 32° C. But I was prepared, the pulka was ready packed and so I was pleased to go again on tour.


I turned southwards to the Rogenstugan. There I took the trail on the left-hand site. The aim was the Storrödtjärnstugan on the ridge of the Tandsjövallen.

To my pleasant surprise a snowmobile passed me on the right. It was the landlord from Käringsjön, who transported firewood in a cart.


I continued to draw my pulka on the trail


One hour later the landlord of Käringsjön approached me again. I assumed he had brought the firewood to the Storrödtjärnstugan my aim for the day today.


Just today the park was covered with clouds of high fog. The first sun rays broke through the high fog in the late afternoon.


The nightfall was coming when I stood at the bottom of this hill and looked up to the Storrödtjärnstugan.


This cabin is situated on the very open and exposed top of the mountain.

Beside the host I was the only guest and could use as much place as I wanted.


After a quiet night I had a rich muesly-breakfast. With the host I had a good conversation about the cabins at the Kungsleden.


Finally, the host told me, that I was the first guest of the year. I was not quiet suprised as the hiking-organization had increased the prices for spending a night drastically.


A wan and pale sun rose over the horizon.


This is the mountain shelter at the slagusjön. I was facinated at once by this extensive location in the high fjäll. If I had had touring skier with me, I would have had stayed in the shelter and skied up the slope to the summit the next morning.


Instead of fullfilling this dream I shovelled the entrance free and took a snack in the wind protected room.


The weather became overcast until it snowed slightly.


My aim for today was the Hävlingenstuga. In this brushwood the trail led up and down permanently.


Quickly a photo of me!


Shortly before the Hävlingen lake. The sky opened up. I regained new strengths.


Original, I had the idea to spend the night within the Hävlingen shelter. However it was just early afternoon and too early for preparing the night. This was the reason for me to move on.

The terrain ascended up to 200 meter and stretched for several kilometers. The woods withdrew and the wide plains followed. I skied up to the mountain plateau to the Särsjöbäcken shelter.


Finally, I reached the shelter Särsjöbäcken. It had become late and bitterly cold. I was very keen to avoid putting up my tent. So I stayed the night in the shelter.

Regrettably there was no fire wood and therefore I started to fire up my gasoline stove, to bring in some warmth. But my little MSR was not able to fight against the - 21° C.


It was so cold in the shelter, that I got out of my sleeping bag even early in the morning. Without any breakfast I set off on the last stage of the tour to Grövelsjön/Storvallen.


A snow desert as far as the eye can reach.


A photo at 7 o´clock in the morning.


A little rest before downhill skiing to Grövelsjön.


Powerfull mountains on the Norwegian side.


With the pulka in the back cross country skiing downhill was a challenge.



I rattled down avoiding to plunge with my pulka. There were many people standing and looking at my speedy skiing.


Finale of a wonderful ski tour through the Rogen Nationalpark.

I was 13 days on ski and had covered a way about 180 km.

In the Nationalpark I had had the peace and quiet I longed for.